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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:04 pm 
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Hi Rod,
....it has been many years now since I did electronics so here goes, if you need to raise the voltage to test leds you need a series resister, now depending on the current required of the led then use the old I = E/R, I being current, E being voltage and R being the resistance you need. Can't remember the rest...sorry.
...oldfartdan


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:29 pm 
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Hello Dan
I seem to get along really well following instructions which I have written up in a log book which gets added to over the years.

My edits were really only surprise that the test box was putting out 12 volts when the LED is rated at under 4v.
Routinely I add a 1K resistor to all LED circuits, but this DCC decoder puts out a low voltage of 4v I think, which has to negotiate a resistor and a cap to reach the LED which does not light at all.
My mistake was being talked into a Tsunami BW1000 meant to run low volt globes in Athearn Diesels, rather than buy the AT1000 I went in for. Obviously my custom was less important than getting rid of stale stock?

I always thought the resistor lowered the voltage to about 4.0v Apparently it just limits the current low enough to stop the LED self destructing. hmm self destructing? ..no it does not do that, so being destroyed (by me)

Today I worked out what tracks to cut and where the different wires go. I am in the process of doing that now. Wish me luck :)
Cheers
Rod

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 11:12 am 
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:D Hi Rod,

...did a bit of research this morning and wellah......http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Dropping_Resistor_Calc.html

....this explains all, hope this helps you.

...dan ;)

.....the resister in series is what causes the voltage drop, the capacitor you refer to would to hold a led bias steady at sa 2V


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 7:34 pm 
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oldfartdan wrote:
:D Hi Rod,

...did a bit of research this morning and wellah......http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Dropping_Resistor_Calc.html

....this explains all, hope this helps you.

...dan ;)

.....the resister in series is what causes the voltage drop, the capacitor you refer to would to hold a led bias steady at sa 2V


Thanks Dan
I am sure you are right :) Am in Melbourne today will Have a look when I get home Tuesday
Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 12:44 am 
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Well I finally got the pictures of the Exhibition up on my Blog if your interested :)

As well I brag a bit about my purchases :) eh sorry
Cheers
Rod

Comtrains Blog

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:01 am 
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Some nice purchases there Rod! Particularly the D3! Very nice, you lucky bugger!

You neglected the one purchase I influenced :P lol

And that black and white rail scene Victoria book, wish I had seen that lol :)

Zec

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 7:43 am 
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Hi Rod,

Those VOCX flats look nice, there's nothing like a derailed wheel

*tick, tick, tick* as it runs over sleepers.

Cheers.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:55 pm 
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Aaron™ wrote:
Hi Rod,

Those VOCX flats look nice, there's nothing like a derailed wheel

*tick, tick, tick* as it runs over sleepers.

Cheers.


I could not get them to stay on the tracks. but the same eyes that did not notice the derailed wheel in the viewfinder did not tell me why they would derail as soon as I tried to move them. I think in actuality the trip pin on the coupler is hitting the sleepers. it is a very shallow angle
Cheers
Rod

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:56 pm 
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S301 wrote:
Some nice purchases there Rod! Particularly the D3! Very nice, you lucky bugger!

You neglected the one purchase I influenced :P lol

And that black and white rail scene Victoria book, wish I had seen that lol :)

Zec


I had a busy weekend?
What did you influence me into buying?
It may still be in the caravan Ha Ha
Cheers
Rod

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:36 am 
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The WowSound decoder :lol:

Zec

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